Cheater Cheese Soufflé | 12 Tomatoes
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Cheater Cheese Soufflé

“The soufflé does not wait for you. You wait for the soufflé!” – Jacques Pepin

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It’s a legendary dish in French cooking, the soufflé. Legendary for many reasons, perhaps notorious, even, because of one inevitable consequence of a soufflé: that it falls. Soufflés are intended to come out of the oven as light, airy, nebulous domes of egg-whipped cheesiness. It’s the seemingly effortless rise of the soufflé that makes it legendarily intimidating. I’ve found a hack, as they say, one that delivers the soufflé experience without the soufflé fussiness.

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Technique still matters, not to the same level as with a traditional soufflé, and there’s one big technique that is skipped in this cheater recipe: separating the egg whites from the egg yolks. I know! It’s kind of mind-blowing. And there’s a story behind it from the renowned French chef Jacques Pepin.

His mother, when first married, knew her husband loved soufflé and would make it for him. Her recipe didn’t have separate steps for the eggs and egg whites; everything went into the bowl at the same time, and always turned out beautifully. And so, the hack, as the kids say these days, became a part of the culinary history of the young man who would become one of the greatest modern French chefs!

Photo: 12 Tomatoes Creative Team

The process remains essentially true. A soufflé starts by making a roux, with butter, flour, and milk, cooked until thick and seasoned with salt and pepper. In the “cheater” technique, the roux is transferred to a large bowl and stirred so that it coats the edges of the bowl, essentially creating a well for the eggs while also cooling the roux to avoid scrambling the eggs.

When the roux is cool enough, you can add the eggs directly to the bowl and begin mixing. Or, whisk the eggs in a separate bowl and then slowly incorporate them into the awaiting roux.

Photo: 12 Tomatoes Creative Team

Cheese is added to the mixture, poured into a pre-buttered baking dish, topped with more cheese, and placed into the oven to bake for about an hour. As Jacques Pepin famously says, “The soufflé does not wait for you. You wait for the soufflé!” Meaning: serve and enjoy immediately!

Photo: 12 Tomatoes Creative Team
Photo: 12 Tomatoes Creative Team

All of the conventional soufflé techniques and ingredients are still in play, but this more rustic approach achieves a similarly elevated soufflé experience. A soufflé might not be an everyday kind of dish, but one that’s this streamlined and approachable means that I can whip one up for a weekend brunch or a holiday meal. Enjoy!

Yield(s): Serves 6

15m prep time

1h cook time

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Ingredients
  • 6 Tbsp unsalted butter and 1 Tbsp for buttering the dish
  • 6 Tbsp AP flour
  • 2 cups whole milk, cold
  • 2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp black pepper
  • 6 large eggs
  • 1 ½ cup Swiss/Gruyere cheese, grated
  • ½ cup cheddar cheese, grated
  • ½ cup parmesan cheese, grated
Preparation
  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F and butter a 9” x 13” oval baking dish.
  2. Melt the butter in a saucepan and cook over medium heat until it stops bubbling.
  3. Add the flour all at once and whisk well to make a roux. Cook the roux for 1-2 minutes or until it smells like popcorn.
  4. Add the milk all at once and whisk continuously until it comes to a boil and thickens.
  5. Add the salt and pepper and lower the heat - continue to cook over low heat for 2 minutes, whisking constantly.
  6. Transfer the sauce to a large work bowl, stir in the Swiss/gruyere and cheddar cheeses, and use the whisk or a rubber spatula to spread it up the sides of the bowl to cool slightly.
  7. Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a separate bowl and whisk well. Add the eggs to the sauce and whisk until smooth.
  8. Transfer the mixture to the baking dish, sprinkle the parmesan over the surface, and bake for 1 hour.
  9. Serve immediately – “The soufflé does not wait for you, you wait for the soufflé!” – Jacques Pepin

Recipe adapted from Food52